Re-Glue
You can do this the right way, or the amateur way. We usually end up repairing a lot of amateur work. What's the difference you might ask? Two rules of thumb apply: First, when re-gluing joints, make sure to sand all the gluing surfaces for a proper bond. We must emphasize this, with the advent of the remarkable "Dremel Tool," there are not many excuses why sanding should not be used in every conceivable application. The second rule is, "the definition of a good carpenter is that you cannot see their mistakes." A certain degree of violence is associated with the separating of loose and/or weak glue joints. We take the utmost care in preparation for re-gluing, using cushions and pressure spreaders wherever applicable. However, in most instances, we need to use the impact of a light mallet, and/or a dead blow hammer to effect a separation. This is where experience and skill are paramount. Sometimes, depending on the type of furniture (antique versus more contemporary), some joints are best left "as is," to prevent unnecessary damage to the integrity of the piece.
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Cleaning up excess glue (using razor blades) and touch up is a tedious but necessary part of a good job. Here at Gray Matter Arts & Crafts, we have restored various antiques from the 16th, 17th, 18th Centuries on, using the same methods of labor-intensive workmanship that existed before our world was mesmerized by Television, Computers, and DVDs. The best part is that the lighting is better today; however, the same techniques are utilized, from webbing, hand-sewn springs, spring-tying, to edge roll saddle stitching.